In this instant of world-wide stress, could the new menswear assertion grail be…a stuffed animal?
The latest Louis Vuitton demonstrate, staged earlier this week in Tokyo, declared it to be so, fastening knit mice on to handbags, draping dragons and scorpions throughout jackets and in excess of shoulders, and pinning elongated bears onto breast pockets like toybox boutonnieres.
Maybe you’re getting Vuitton déjà vu, recalling the high-strength selection unveiled in Shanghai just a number of weeks in the past that also highlighted plushy buddies. This demonstrate, which released 59 new appears to be like in addition to the 60 proven in Shanghai, is the next chapter in designer Virgil Abloh’s new seasonless design of trend, which turns collections into globe-trotting extravaganzas. (Even though quite a few brand names, like Gucci and Saint Laurent, are carrying out absent with this sort of itinerant events, Abloh is betting that they are the upcoming.) The Shanghai present provoked controversy for similarities among several of the stuffed animal parts and kinds made by Antwerp Six legend Walter Van Beirerndonck for drop 2016, but the latest creatures double down much more straight on individuals initially launched in a short film back again in July. (Whew!)
The most outrageous of the new Tokyo parts showcased Mike Kelley-esque assemblages of the complete zoo on the entrance of jackets and vests, like a midlayer garment. A different white suited model just clutched a Vuitton-monogrammed bear below his arm, reminding us that amid last month’s cuddy contretemps, Abloh stated on Instagram that the toys were in actuality referencing a spring 2005 Vuitton exhibit in which then-designer Marc Jacobs sent out models clutching bears in homage to Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited antihero Sebastian Flyte. Amongst the Kelley evocation and the Brideshead reference, the animals struck a tone of marginally morose pathos.
The midlayer garment has been unusually central to menswear about the past couple a long time, evolving from fanny pack to crossbody bag to fishing (or bulletproof) vest to sparkly Timothee Chalamet leather harness. It was a keystone of the warcore vogue motion that turned Helmut Lang workwear into something foreboding and created hypebeasts seem unusually battle all set. This hottest model suggests that menswear is headed in a direction additional playful and imaginative, most likely–though surely additional vulnerable, and perhaps even sensitive. Both way, it’ll appear just as fantastic on Chalamet.